Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Training


Playing guitar while Helen and Andrew sang Simple Gifts, then six weeks later, on January 20th having this exchange with Helen online: ¨First time I´ll ever say that I played better music than Yo Yo Ma, because our simple things had the words!¨

´Tis a gift to be simple, ´tis a gift to be free,
´tis the gift to come down where you ought to be,
And when we find ourselves in the place just right,
´Twill be in the valley of love and delight.
When true simplicity is gain´d,
To bow and to bend we shan´t be asham´d,
To turn, turn will be our delight,
Till turning, turning we come round right.
I was skeptical about Peace Corps until I saw what it could do:  Pat, Sara and I were in the same Ag group and had to give our charla presentation on natural pesticides.  

Likewise, my friend Rachael from high school was skeptical about Peace Corps until she learned how we worked.  And what we didnt do.  We didnt have money, most important of all, so we had to learn what the community cared about doing, and had to find ways to empower those people to do that for themselves, rather than rely on American aid.  That alone is what separates us from every thing else people are doing now, and it´s why PC has produced reality-based development leaders that have great knowledge of their communities. And while we had to learn to make do with the resource available to us, living there we saw plenty of examples of money thrown at poorly-designed products that were not wanted by the people and that accomplished nothing while strengthening their dependency on others.  

Instead, we learned their language, asked them what was important to them, and helped them to devise ways to implement those projects with the resources available to them. Sustainability in every way.  You can start one thing or another, but sharing skills is automatically sustainable.  So, when you discover that about Peace Corps, you have respect for what the people are there doing, rather than writing their efforts off as a misguided attempt towards futility and irrelevance.  Like Rachael seemed to have done.

But as I said above, my feelings towards what PC does changed when we gave our charla.  It was during that short hour--having run around town to buy avocados and chocolate to share with the people attending, hopping on the E bus at the six lane highway, five bags full of food in my arms and then stepping onto the bus with its surplus of stuffed animals hanging in all of the corners and the public service announcements pasted on the walls; ¨Go to your kids, they want you to come home¨  or ¨Drinking only makes your problems worse¨--running towards Sarah´s family´s home and tucking in my shirt and putting on my belt and my best shoes.  But something was wrong, the memo did not get sent out broadly enough and we had to debate whether to continue having our charla or not.  We decided to, since Carla and Nabor our teachers had a limited amount of time to see us perform.  

And we did it.  And Pat, who didn´t know Spanish at all when he arrived in Bolivia, for the first time in his life spoke for 15 or 20 minutes on complicated subjects.  That meant everything to me, and showed that this PC program, which is relatively cheap and known as the best face of American diplomacy,  worked wonders.  While Pat remained as lovably asinine as ever-- far more so when we were about to leave-- he was like a different person.  And I was proud of that guy, and could only imagine how much harder the process had been for him.  I came knowing Spanish, and sat bored through the classes.  But he had caught up and was doing something I couldnt do before I got to Bolivia.  

The second thing I learned about PC was that it was fundamentally about us, the volunteer.  No matter the good we could do, we ourselves always gained more than anyone else. Nosotros mismos.  It was a struggle later to find peace with that, since this is supposed to be a selfless endeavour. Yet, the resolution to this I found in the need and continuing desire engendered in me during and after the service to continue working for others.  So it´s a two-year crash course, where you are put into a blender and come out of the end more solid and closer to Earth than ever.  But it´s a painful thing to go through.  And if you take those two years as a bridge to a 20 year career in development, or global education and diplomacy, then you have many opportunities to repay that debt.

PC itself gives you a lot of grief and heartache.  But Bolivia gave each of us enough to make up the difference and in ways we continue to recognize long after we´ve left.  So the earlier, and suffering question of it being worthwhile becomes laughable after awhile.

Initial Memories

Just like biting into Proust´s madeleine, every random act in my life now seems to transport me back eight or ten months. When I was still in the thick of it.  Since I have many unscheduled hours in the day, time to commit to paper the memories that come randomly as I go about the day. 

Earlier I remembered an argument between Andrew Porter, Pat and me during Consolidation #1 (as unenthusiastic as I was during this when we found out that the whole week would be booked with lectures and Open Q&A group discussions, it really helped a lot. I remember getting more out of asking the fellow volunteers that had already gone through the shit moments of work and integration, learning about rose and fruit transplanting when in the pool, or learning how the ultimate, Quixotic goal was to get the beekeepers independent.)
But our argument was about what can be considered a hole, and whether the term asshole was a misnomer.  And naturally, with three guys this developed into a two hour debate.  And the emphasis was on assholes.

While this was not quite as fulfilling as the continuing debate over the existence of God--I am still surprised Andrew could be a philosophy major without having come to the same conclusion as me--it was the perfect safety valve.  I felt more reinvigorated and OK with the world after that than anything since then.

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The night before we left, I marveled everyone at the Wasi Masi by returning from El Germén, the german lady´s bakery, having spent the stack of my last bolivianos on fourteen of the rum-cream chocolate brownies.  They sometimes gave me the runs, but there existed nothing so exquisite in the entire departamento.  People wanted to pay me back, but since we knew at the time that a plane ticket was waiting for us in the morning, I only asked that somebody would get my fair for the bus ticket to the airport the next morning.  And I supplied a lot of welcome relief and physical pleasure by indulging in those.  If I´m correct, a few people tried to visit there but it had already closed later that night.  We watched TV and saw Sucre on the CNN En Español  & the national news, one building in particular a couple of blocks away.  I´m sure there was some violence near us, but it was nice to leave before it got bad in our area, so that my memory would be untarnished.

Still, in consistency with the Proust ´involuntary-memory-from-biting-the-madeleine´, each time I get a whiff of chocolate I pat my pocket to see if my passport is there ready to go (it´s not).